FACING MOUNT KIRINYAGA

I have become a certified village bum; what, with spending a considerable chunk of my life in Kiamwathi, Kinunga, Giakanja, Wariruta and Mihuti being the order of the day. Now my Kikuyu is almost native and my hair is dyed red from constant exposure to the red volcanic soils. That’s not to say I don’t have a life, I certainly do. I recently took a working tour of Nyeri and filed these demented memoirs.

Nyeri, the provincial seat of Central Province, lies about 160 kilometres north of Nairobi. The direct route to Nyeri is via Sagana & Karatina but you could also take the more winding and picturesque route via Muranga - Othaya. On a clear sunny day, one may be lucky to see the bold snow peak of the Kirinyaga as the local would have it or simply Mt Kenya. The Aberdares too are visible from several vantage points.

The history of Nyeri town is intertwined with that of the Mau Mau freedom fighters and that of the founder of the Boys Scouts & Girl Guide movements – Baden Powell. Field Marshal Dedan Kimathi Waciuri was born, lived and died in Nyeri District. Baden Powell fell in love with the land after his first visit to Kenya in 1906. The legacy of the two heroes from worlds apart is part of the town today with roads and monuments dedicated to them.

Nyeri and its outliers are constantly watered by rain, I guess because of its proximity to Mt Kenya. The good rainfall supports lush vegetation all year round. There must plenty of food in the area evidenced by the riotous hawkers who shove bananas and melons in your face any time your stop at the numerous market points along the Nairobi – Nyeri road. I just don’t understand the fuss; the prices are not much different from the overpriced fruits at the entrance to Nairobi Hospital.

I am staying at the scenic Green Hills Hotel - great lawns, friendly staff that makes you feel at home and decent rooms to match their great hospitality. I have been here before and their food can get monotonous. I am tempted to venture outside the hotel to sample Central Kenya cuisine. Needless to say, it was a disappointing affair. I am positive that the chefs and cooks in this town go to different school from the rest of Kenya. All the food is cooked the same. Lots of soup, cabbage, peas and carrots are a must accompaniment for any type of anything you order.

It doesn’t stop there, whoever told them that nyama choma (roasted meat) should be accompanied by mukimo (a green dish made of smashed potatoes, beans and maize and pumpkin leaves)? Nyama Choma is eaten with ugali (maize meal) and kachumbari (fresh onions, chillies and tomatoes chopped and blended), period.

The most decent alternative is the Outspan, said to have been built in Baden Powell’s backyard. The good variety of food is perhaps an indication that the chef has a generous budget. Food is served at this beautiful terrace overlooking Mt Kenya, also a great setting for an afternoon English tea. The beautiful lawns and superior rooms at Outspan would put to shame some five star hotels in Nairobi.

 

The patio restaurant at the Outspan Hotel overlooking Mt. Kenya in the distance

 

 

The last time I was here there was a respectable watering hole, the Kirinyaga tavern. It has since gone dead and the party animal in me will have to look elsewhere for fun. Residents of Central province will remember the era of a no-nonsense provincial commissioner by the name of Peter Raburu. Security must have been the issue then as it is now; the well-meaning officer declared that all bars in town be closed by 11pm. This decree still holds to date but I was not to be deterred. I promised myself a party and party I will. It is only fair that a man lays a good foundation for his drink and spare pork ribs are just the thing.

Central hotel, patronised by tour drivers and famed for its soul sisters, serves great roast pork, I hear. I had to take a pass because my friends wouldn’t dare show up here. Their advice? Stay away from those soul sisters, they will spike your drink and clean you up real good. The ‘Banana leaf’ (told you, these guys have gone bananas!) is one of the few exceptions to the 11pm curfew.

This small tented place just outside the CBD is possibly the only stopover for the weary and thirsty traveler in Nyeri. It opens through the night till morning, the drinks are fairly priced but the music is average. It could be better save for the scatterbrain on the decks. Honestly, DJ Abbas should go work on his attitude; music is played for the patrons not for self-gratification!

Talking of bars, there is this place down the road just outside Nyeri town called Ruringu, for every two shops there is a bar. I have been around and not once in my long life have I seen such a concentration of bars at one tiny market place. There are probably 30 bars on two acres of market space. Hmmmh! What does that say about the drinking habits?

My sense of adventure wouldn’t let me take the same boring route back home. I love the countryside, and the Othaya-Muranga- Nairobi route is utterly rewarding - lovely green hills, valleys, deep gorges and lots of fresh air. Formerly known as Fort Hall, present day Muranga, is an old colonial era relic that is looking up to better times. The streets are strikingly clean and well maintained. Muranga District holds distinction of having the most landslides in this country. Its curse is also its beauty and the district has some of the most rustic scenery conceivable. There is a breath-taking canyon as we approach the Muranga town from Othaya side, a definite attraction for the daring traveler.

As we leave town on your way to Thika, there is this imposing railway bridge. It is not exactly the Brooklyn Bridge but this extraordinary structure spans hundreds of feet across and close to 50 metres above the valley floor. To think that some colonial engineers and a couple of famished Indian coolies dodged lions to lay down this structure almost a century ago! Why, in the name of God, do we still have roundabouts in our cities while fly-over technology existed centuries ago?

The rest of the drive back is easy, through pineapple country. The labour issues at Del Monte must have been resolved because we can now buy pineapples at their roadside shop without hawkers shoving fruits in your face. Oh, it’s nice to be back home!

This story ran in the Zuqka, a Nation Media publication on 1/1/2009 under the title “Beautiful Nyeri – same food”  http://www.nation.co.ke/lifestyle/Zukqa/-/498272/509396/-/ejhlxf/-/index.html